Overview
Two weeks in Hokkaido chasing the powder Japan is famous for — light, dry, bottomless snow that turns every tree run into a white room.
The trip covered Niseko United (Annupuri and Hirafu), Rusutsu, and a scouting pass through Kiroro. Base camp was an Annupuri lodge, with day trips to Otaru, Lake Toya, and multiple onsen along the way. Snow conditions were leaner than a typical season — about half the usual snowpack — but Rusutsu delivered the goods when it counted, with Heavenly lift trees and an untouched Steamboat run that earned its reputation.
Daily Log
Arrival — Tokyo & Sapporo
Flew into Tokyo, overnight stay, then onward to New Chitose Airport (CTS) in Sapporo. A full tourist day in Sapporo before heading south toward the mountains.
NYE Night Skiing — Annupuri Arrival
New Year's Eve on the mountain. Snow was dust on crust — the JJ UL 116s felt a size too big for the conditions, but the stoke carried it. Picked up the rental car afterward and drove to Sapporo, then made it to the Annupuri lodge for the first night.
Annupuri + Hirafu Night Skiing
Stopped at Moiwa to visit Shota's shop — picked up 100% goggles with a clear lens, the right call for the overcast and snowing conditions. Gondola laps at Annupuri, shrimp tempura at the lodge, a nap, then back out for night skiing at Hirafu.
Found untouched snow and followed the smell of sulfur to the spring water source. Ended the night at the Hirafu food trucks — dumplings, A8 burger, cremia ice cream, and chocolate.
Hirafu — Hana 3 Laps & Sushi Night
On-hill by 9:30am. Skied Hana 3 Quad most of the day, ducked rope at the top for the first ridge. Second run found the trees under the lift. Clouds came and went — sun made it warm with four layers, clouds brought cold and fresh snow.
Snowpack running about half of a typical season — bamboo and small trees exposed everywhere. Ejected several times catching baby trees, but snow was still soft and deep enough that it didn't hurt.
After skiing: drove to Kabito in Niseko for sushi, then onsen at Makkari. Salmon sushi was exactly what we were after. Korean beef was a standout. Thomas lost the gyoza Russian roulette — best gyoza of the trip. Sake tasting. Full moon and Mt. Yotei from the onsen.
Rusutsu — Heavenly Lift & Tree Lines
Ended up at Rusutsu instead of Hirafu. West parking lot, through the main lodge (Ferris wheel, shops, restaurants). Gondola through the yellow arches to the east mountain, then skier's-left to the Heavenly lift.
Explored trees on both sides of Heavenly — good pow lines, lots of exposed bamboo. Double ejections throughout the day. Lunch at the Heavenly food truck: tonkotsu chicken and pepper chicken for ¥1,200 total. 650ml beer for ¥600. Walked to Iroha onsen that night.
Kiroro Scout + Otaru + Yoichi
No skiing — a full exploration day. Drove up to Kiroro to scout the resort. Trees still closed; bought some Hestra glove wax at the gear shop and moved on.
Drove to Otaru, stopped at several convenience stores looking for melon pastries — found them eventually. Walked the canal in wind and snow, shot some photos from a bridge. Fresh seafood restaurant near the canal: king crab pot, salmon sashimi, fruit ice cream.
Detour to Yoichi for the Nikka distillery — closed. Ended up at Rookie's instead. Karaage and fried pork with rice in curry sauce.
Rusutsu — White Room & Goshiki Onsen
Cold all day — around −10°C with wind. Back to Heavenly through the trees. First couple of runs were white room: each turn kicked up a billow of light snow so dense you could barely see while skiing. The kind of condition you come to Japan for.
Bumped Heavenly all day. Pi-kan for rolled pizza after skiing — highly recommend. Espresso poured over ice cream. Then drove to Goshiki onsen on the far side of Moiwa — a traditional ryokan-style onsen. Water was extremely hot; the outdoor pool was cooler, but at −10°C with frozen ears and hair, didn't last long.
Rusutsu — Steamboat & The Hike Out
Skied with Yoriki and his friend, guided by Riki. First run straight to Steamboat — lift closed, so the run was completely untouched. Pillows and open trees with no shrubs or bamboo. This was the epic Japan powder everyone talks about. We each took our turn.
Skied down to the closed lift, no ride out available. Had to boot pack up the groomed run — 15 to 20 minutes, hot and sweaty. Worth every step. Paid Riki ~$100 USD to cover driving and lift costs.
Rest Day — Date & Lake Toya
Sinus pressure and runny nose won. Stayed in bed at the lodge all day. Thomas and Tyler drove to Date and Lake Toya — reported back as very Japanese, worth the drive. Best sushi of the trip and great views from the onsen.
Thomas's Birthday — Pizza Box to Hana 3
Geared up and traversed from Rusutsu through Pizza Box, over to Hanazono, and into Hana 3 for tree laps in the afternoon. Went into Hirafu village after — Bar Gyu for drinks: cozy atmosphere, good music, worth the wait. Kobito for dinner and drinks, then back to the lodge bar with Tyler and Rhys.
Last Run — Gate 7, Knee-to-Waist Deep
Took the morning slow. Gondola at Rusutsu was closed for wind. Took the quad to a double chair, went through gate 7 and stayed skier's left into untouched snow, about knee to waist deep. That was the last run of the trip.
Changed and drove three minutes to Niseko Annupuri onsen — outdoor pool, good temperature, great views. Could have stayed much longer. Pi-kan again for rolled pizza and ice cream.
Fly Home — New Chitose
Up at 6am — first proper sleep in days. Too early for breakfast (opens at 7), so two coffees and a chat with Rhys and Sophie. Bought the last 401 lodge hoodie in XXL. Donated some yen to the yeti research fund. Bus to New Chitose. Fly home.
Return Routes
What this trip pointed toward — terrain, operators, and ideas worth building a future expedition around.
Active volcano terrain about 30 minutes outside of Sapporo. Access via cable car, then hiking or skinning to the summit zone. Onsen nearby for the post-tour recovery that Hokkaido does better than anywhere. A natural next step after Rusutsu — more committing, more remote, more rewarding.
Kit — Japow 25/26
Full gear manifest for the Hokkaido trip. Built around a backcountry-capable setup — beacon, probe, shovel, skins, and Garmin inReach — without going full-expedition weight. The 116+ powder ski demands a touring-compatible binding and boot to unlock the side and backcountry terrain this region is built for.